a chinese climber hanging off an overhang in chamonix

The 17th IFSC Climbing World Cup Comes to Chamonix

One of the biggest events in the World climbing calendar

featured in News & reviews Author Katy Dartford, Chamonix Reporter Updated 10 July 2015

There are not many sports where you can really get up close and watch the best athletes in their field perform - and for free, but climbing is thankfully one of those where it’s still possible and as Chamonix hosts the first stop of the 17th edition of the IFSC Climbing World Cup - it should be a spectacle for climbers and non climbers alike.

Taking place are the lead and speed competitions and the paraclimbing world series which includes events for one leg amputee athletes, athletes with Neurological physical conditions and blind athletes.

Whilst most of us may be familiar with lead climbing - based on technical difficulty - the competition for speed climbing is less familiar. It’s more of a race on moderately hard routes and is dominated by the Chinese and Russians. Chamonix is the fourth stage of the Speed World Cup, which began earlier this summer in Canada in Central Saanich.

The event has a “Climbing Village” of around 20 exhibitors and a big screen so you don’t miss that crucial move tonight. There are two specially built 15 metre climbing walls - the speed wall has two lanes so climbers can race each other. Winners can often complete the climb in around 7 seconds. The technical wall is built out at an angle of around 30 degrees with a steep overhanging section to really push the climbers.

Austrians and Eastern Europeans seem to dominate the technical discipline, but having said that, Jain Kim (South Korea) will be defending her top spot against a strong field of competitors, including Delaney Miller (USA) and Anak Verhoeven (BEL).

One to look out for in the men’s competition is Chamoniard Romain Desgranges. The French champion and 4th best climber in the world has been preparing well. He’s just returned from a trip to California where he soloed High Bowls in Joshua tree, which can be seen in the film, "So High,” being screened in the Place Mont Blanc on Friday night.

Also look out for 2014 Lead and Bouldering Word Champion Adam Ondra (CZE) facing all-time favourites Sean McColl (CAN), and Ramón Julian Puigblanque (ESP).

In Speed, Anouck Jaubert (FRA) will also be competing in front of her home crowd. She's currently in third place, 25 points behind the leaders of the field - dominated by Russia with Mairia Krasavina and Lullia Kaplina in the top spot.

In the men’s field, Qixin Zhong (CHN) is well ahead with 300 points and apparently unbeatable this season after his three gold medals in a row…. but hot on his heels is Libor Hroza (CZE) who is only 0.01 seconds away from breaking the current World Record set in Chongqing, China, and Dzienski Marcin (POL) who is second with 171 points.

The Climbing World Cup in Chamonix is one of the biggest worldwide climbing events in the climbing calendar and the whole weekend has a really fun atmosphere plus there is usually a bit of a party in the square once it’s all over.

The IFSC world cup takes place annually with several stages across the world - the winner being the one with the most points according to the scoring system. The last round will take place in Kranj in Slovenia on 14th and 15th November.

The ranking of the Lead and Speed European Championships 2015 are also calculated from the ranking of the Lead and Speed World Cup 2015 in Chamonix.

Schedule:

Friday 10th July 2015: Place Mont Blanc

13h-16h: Qualification test of Men and Women Paraclimbing
20h-21h: Opening ceremony of the Climbing World Cup
21h-23h: Film Screening Mont Blanc Square- including the film Romain Desgranges film - So high - followed by the film by Gilles Chappaz on the Compagnie des Guides

Saturday 11th July 2015: Place Mont Blanc